Raw in Goa: my first green coconut

As I was preparing for this trip, I was strongly imagining how great it would be to get my hands on that first green coconut. I didn't waste any time; jetlag or no jetlag, following the 24 hour journey it was suitcase down, flip flops on and I headed outta the door. Within a couple of hundred yards I found a stall. A table by the roadside piled with green coconuts and also a small plastic bottle of petrol. Yes India is all about unexpected combinations. The proprietress emerged from a coconut leaf shack, hacked the top off a gorgeous green globe with a machete and inserted a straw, "You drink", she instructed. I paid her 20 rupees, approx 30 pence. I was joined by a local indian woman, with the wide toothy smile, clear skin and sparkling eyes of a Goan. I admired her sari and jewellery and she my Gap jeans. Two young boys dodged and tumbled together in the dust by the shack. The sun was setting, it was a beautiful moment. I was eager for the jelly inside the nut, alas it it was empty. A reminder that India rarely yields up what one is expecting.